A suitable look lands the job

By: Carlee Brown

Posted: 4/29/09

It wasn't so long ago that many felt secure in their financial situations - and it showed. Khakis and a button down, sans tie, became the uniform of the confident professional. But moods have changed and, although business casual is still the trend for many, standing out requires one's appearance to speak volumes.

Americans are associating modern times with that of the Great Depression, when the hobos dressed better than some of today's CEOs. No longer is the man in cuff links thought to be trying too hard. His attention to detail is considered admirable in a period where many are being forced to prove themselves. The applicant that looks smashing will often triumph over his counterpart with a comparable resume.

"We haven't seen a decrease in business and I think it's because the people conducting interviews want the person to dress up more," said Paul Jones, manager of Walker Brothers Dry Goods. "We are seeing a lot more business suits, vests, and ties. It's kind of like the old days."

To really make a good impression, an interviewee should look impeccable from head to toe. A suit is the necessary foundation from which all details are built. Its heritage stems from military wear designed to highlight a man's strengths. When cut properly and made with a fabric that compliments the individual, it signals authority and commands attention.

"I don't think someone needs to wear a suit, but if they do it shows me they are a little bit more serious about the interview process, " said Eric Airola, Director of Human Resources at J.B. Hunt.

A black suit is acceptable, but a bit formal for an interview. The best choice is either gray or navy and should be made of wool.

The jacket should have two, three, or four buttons and all but the bottom button should remain buttoned while standing. It should become second nature to unbutton all of them when seated, and to button them again when rising from the seat. It is permissible to leave them buttoned while eating dinner. The jacket should never been taken off. A hot day must be endured and a polite host offering to hang it should be politely turned down.

"If I was a college student - man or woman - and I was going to an interview, I would wear a suit because I'm more traditional. If you can't afford a suit, wear nice slacks and a button down. Women should wear a nice skirt that's at the knee or below," said Carrie Johnson, Human Resources Manager at J.B. Hunt. "If I was interviewing for marketing and sales, I would go trendier."

A man's suit jacket should fit so that it can be easily buttoned without any significant tug marks across the fabric. The arms should be long enough so that about a one fourth inch of the dress shirt can be seen beyond the cuffs when arms are relaxed and hanging to the side. Pants cuffs should be between 1 ¼ and 2 inches. The pants hem should hang just over the top of the shoe.

A ready -to-wear suit is the most common and least expensive type and is available at a department store. When a customer purchases a suit and then has it altered, it is referred to as made to measure. The customer receives the most options in terms of fit and choice of fabric when opting for a bespoke, which is a custom-made garment.

"Most guys are starting to get their suits tailored, as we have been seeing more of that tapered fit and modern look over the past year and a half. We are doing more of it here than ever before. I think that guys are seeing other guys in it and knowing it's the hot thing right now," Jones said. "Otherwise, they are probably going to wear that boxy traditional cut suit, which a lot of your older gentlemen still wear."

Most employers would rather see an individual go without a suit, than to settle for something ill fitting, outdated, or poorly made.

"When I was doing college recruiting, I had a kid that showed up wearing a suit in which you could tell something just wasn't right. He had the sleeves rolled up and under because they were too long. He wasn't wearing proper dress shoes for a suit, and you could tell he was a guy that wasn't comfortable in a tie." Airola said.

If an appropriate suit is not in the budget, then a nice shirt and tie with slacks should be worn. A sport coat may be added to the ensemble, but if this route is taken, pants must be a color different from that of the jacket - or they will clash.

A French cuff shirt with cuff links is more formal than the barrel-cuff alternative. This choice should be based on what feels more comfortable. Men should steer away from a buttoned collar for an interview because it is considered more casual than a spread or a pointed collar. Stripes and prints should be avoided. Some now say that bright shirts are fine because they became stylish in recent years, but traditionally they were not considered proper for an interview. A white shirt is a perfect choice for the classic, conservative man.

"I think bold shirts are fine. They are saying on the news that bold colors are good because they help you stand out. But if it's too much - like a really bright pink shirt - you can look a bit overboard," Johnson said.

A tie cannot be neglected and, for an interview, it has to be made of silk or a silk blend. It should be a conservative color. Deep colors like blue and red are always safe. Prints are fine as long as they aren't tacky and don't clash with the shirt. The bottom of the tie should grace the belt.

"Don't do a solid tie with a solid suit, but also make sure you don't go too loud with one. I would stay classic. Paisley ties are really in right now," Jones said.

The traditional shoe is a leather lace-up, but the convenience and popularity of slip-ons has earned dressier versions some respect. Regardless, a conservative, stylish man will appreciate a sleek pair of shoes with laces.

"I really look at shoes. I want to make sure they are shined. You see some people that wear a nice shirt and trousers, but they look like they just forgot about their shoes. To me that has to do with attention to detail. Shoes put the whole package together and really show that you gave it some thought," Airola said.

A woman may wear heels or flats as long as they are in good taste and closed toe, but there is something to be said for a woman who is comfortable in heels. She looks in control and in charge. A bright color almost always will ruin the effect and look cheap in a work situation.

"We had a woman come in that had fire red tips on her hair. They matched her shoes and her dress. She was very well color coordinated, but it was striking. The recruiter really had to think about what the hiring manager's reaction would be," Airola said.

Women have the advantage of dressing a little less stuffy, especially when it comes to shirt selection. A button down, collared shirt is always acceptable, but might appear a bit boring. Any shirt can be worn that has a high neckline and covers the midsection. It should have a sleeve as opposed to straps and should not cling to the body. Wearing such a shirt under a suit always looks the most professional, but when applying for some creative jobs, a stylish dress or a pairing of a top and bottom makes the interviewee look more appropriate for the field.